inspiration – Garmentory Magazine

Meet the Women Behind Instagram’s Best Throwback TV Accounts

Every generation has its iconic television shows. You know them: the ones you religiously watch every week, with characters who become your best friends and storylines you totally resonate with. The ones that really represent a time and a place. The nineties certainly had no shortage of great TV and, in particular, seriously awesome female leads. Women unapologetically intelligent, fierce, strong and complex, with fabulous style to boot. Nostalgia for the decade is at an all-time high, showing up in music, fashion, makeup, and all the best memes. Instagram accounts, like @buffythestyleslayer, @whatfranwore and @mirandamondays, dedicated to some of the most kick-ass nineties female protagonists (Buffy Summers, Fran Fine and Miranda Hobbes — from Buffy the Vampire Slayer, The Nanny, and Sex and the City, respectively) have become go-tos for endless inspiration, in many ways. With smart, witty captions that relate past context and culture to present-day and feeds filled with coveted outfits, they celebrate the characters for who they are and what they represent. We caught up with the forces behind Instagram’s best throwback TV accounts to talk fashion, pop culture, nostalgia and more.

MAE COPELAND – @BUFFYTHESTYLESLAYER

WHAT’S YOUR DAY JOB? I’m a student. I graduate in December. And, other than that, I work for Urban Outfitters and I intern at Paste Magazine, I’m their social media intern.

WHY DID YOU START THIS ACCOUNT? WERE YOU A BIG BUFFY FAN GROWING UP? The hugest. I have loved Buffy since I was a child and I watched it so many times, and admired her and tried to emulate her fashion, the way she spoke, and all of that as a kid. I was inspired by the account @everyoutfitonsatc, where they do pretty much the same thing as me: they take outfits from Sex and the City and they critique it. I was looking for a resume builder, basically, to prove that I can run an account, organically grow followers, and write. And it worked, it’s how I got my job with Paste. They thought I was hilarious and it’s paid off.

ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE ABOUT THE ACCOUNT IS YOU HAVE BOTH — THE FASHION AND THE SOCIAL COMMENTARY. AND BUFFY IS SO MUCH ABOUT BOTH. Yeah, it’s so funny how relevant Buffy still is. So many people still love it and are just now discovering it. But the fact that I can take a snapshot from a show that aired 20 years ago and apply it to our current culture — and the fashion is really now coming back into style — and reapply it to our modern lens is really cool. 

IT’S AWESOME HOW YOU INCLUDE ALL THE CHARACTERS ON THE SHOW. JUST TALKING LADIES, HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE BUFFY, WILLOW, CORDELIA, AND FAITH’S STYLES? Buffy really loves a touch of glamour in her style. she wears mini skirts and tall boots and bobble sunglasses with gold lipstick. And she loves texture and animal prints and suede, leather, satin, mesh — all of that. 

Willow is actually pretty funny, because she’s kind of noted as the least fashionable on the show, but she’s, like, a pioneer for normcore with her crazy sweaters. She has every single pair of Adidas Gazelles and Superstars that you can imagine. So, she’s probably the most relevant to fashion right now.

Faith is super edgy, loves leather pants, just comfort is her jam. I mean, she’s wearing denim cutoffs with huge combat boots to exercise in.

And then there’s Cordelia. She’s very fashion-forward, refined, she wears button-ups and makes them look very sexy.

WHAT DOES THEIR STYLE TELL US ABOUT THEIR CHARACTERS? Well, it’s funny because before Faith rolled into town, Buffy had a lot of edge to her wardrobe. And then Faith took over the bad girl role and she was the rule breaker, and Buffy’s style kind of went to a more modest place. She wore a lot of pastels and they [the show’s creators] were really playing up the good girl role in the dichotomy between the two. Faith’s the bad slayer, she dresses edgy and risqué, and Buffy’s the good slayer and she is well put together and follows the rules. It’s interesting to see how they make their style reflect what’s happening on the show.

BUFFY’S STYLE EVOLUTION REALLY MATCHES HER CHARACTER GROWTH. SORT OF BRIGHT AND BUBBLY AT THE BEGINNING AND DARK AND MOODY TOWARDS THE END. Yeah, absolutely. At the beginning, she’s very carefree and open with her style choices and finding herself as a teenager. And then everything throughout the show happens and her style evolves around with it, where at the end she’s totally different. Everything she wears is unrecognizable from the beginning seasons. 

GOING BACK TO NINETIES FASHION, WHY DO YOU THINK THERE’S SUCH NOSTALGIA FOR IT RIGHT NOW? It’s really crazy because the show aired 20 years ago and I’m in my 20s, so I recall that fashion and now it’s coming back and it’s all in Buffy. Everything that she’s wearing and all the other characters are wearing, you see on the street. I mean, style is cyclical. Everything comes back and all of a sudden, nineties are a thing again. It’s just recalling your childhood and that time period, which doesn’t seem so far away but I guess it really is.

IT’S INTERESTING WATCHING THE LATER SEASONS WHEN BUFFY’S IN COLLEGE AND GETTING INTO THE PEASANT TOPS AND THE MORE EARLY 2000S STUFF, WHICH IS COMING BACK IN FASHION NOW, TOO.  I started this whole project back in January and last year it was very nineties, which inspired me to start the Instagram because I was seeing all this fashion coming back in stores and I’d watch Buffy and be like, ‘it’s exactly that.’ And as I’ve gone through the show, I’ve tried to be somewhat chronological with it, and now fashion and trends are moving into the early aughts and the millennium and you can see Buffy turn from very nineties to very 2000s, very Y2K. I mean, where is fashion going to go after that? It feels so radical right now, all the rhinestones and the low cut jeans of the early 2000s. I can’t even comprehend what’s coming next. Are we gonna do 2010 fashion? What was that?

BUFFY IS FULL OF LIFE LESSONS. WHAT IS ONE THAT WE CAN TAKE FROM HER? Buffy really taught me how to respond to difficult moments and react to complex emotion. It taught me how to react to hardships in a different way and think what Buffy would do, because she was faced with that all the time.

ONE STYLE LESSON? Don’t be afraid of texture and prints. Buffy wears animal print and fur and spandex and leather and satin, and that’s what makes her style so interesting. She’s fearless. 

SHANAE BROWN – @WHATFRANWORE

WHAT’S YOUR DAYJOB?  I’m a patient care technician at a hospital.

WHY DID YOU START THIS ACCOUNT? WERE YOU A FAN OF THE NANNY GROWING UP? WhatFranWore started on my Tumblr blog. I was posting screenshots of my favorite Fran outfits and people always asked what she was wearing, so I decided to see how many outfits I could identify. I was too young to really appreciate the show as a child, but I rediscovered it as an adult and I’m definitely a fan.

HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE FRAN’S STYLE? I would describe Fran’s look as 90s chic. The character embodies everything women’s fashion was in the 1990s, she rocked every trend effortlessly. 

WHAT DOES HER STYLE TELL US ABOUT HER CHARACTER? Fran’s style tells us that she’s brave and fearless, her clothes were definitely an extension of her personality and the fashion was a huge part of the show.

HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT IDENTIFYING ALL THE DESIGNERS? I get this question a lot! When I began my research, I had no idea what to search for, but I started with a basic Google Search. Usually, Google will take you to other places such as blogs, online marketplaces, or vintage magazine archives. It’s time-consuming, but it’s fun, and I’ve learned a lot about designers and fashion.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE FRAN OUTFIT? Since starting the Instagram account I have developed an appreciation for all her outfits, even the ones that are a little iffy. I’m not sure I have a favorite anymore.

WHY DO YOU THINK THERE’S SUCH NOSTALGIA FOR NINETIES FASHION RIGHT NOW? I think most of the nineties nostalgia is coming from people like me who were too young to truly appreciate the fashion back then. 

DO YOU THINK FRAN MADE AN IMPACT ON POP CULTURE? I think she has an impact in a small way. One thing I’ve noticed is that while the show is well known, it isn’t universally well known. I would love for the show to be on either Netflix and Hulu so the character can be rediscovered and be truly appreciated for her style.

WHAT’S ONE LIFE LESSON WE CAN LEARN FROM FRAN? Fran was always kind of looked down on by the other characters on the show, however it never stopped her from being exactly who she is. So, I think the life lesson is to be confident because people are always going to have something to say no matter what.  

ONE STYLE LESSON? A simple one but…turtlenecks are a must! 

ANONYMOUS – @MIRANDAMONDAYS 

OTHER THAN SPREADING THE GOSPEL OF MIRANDA HOBBES, WHAT IS YOUR DAY JOB? I’ve pledged to remain anonymous but I can tell you that I’ve had careers from shop girl to corporate girl, but my favorite job is posting Miranda Mondays. 

WHY DID YOU START THIS ACCOUNT? WHY MIRANDA, SPECIFICALLY? I wanted an outlet for my views and Miranda was someone I ALWAYS idolized! I identified with how she kept pushing Steve off at the beginning because she couldn’t believe men were interested in her, I was the same way and still get shocked when a man thinks I’m sexy. 

MIRANDA SEEMS TO HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PIGEONHOLED AS THE LEAST FAVORABLE CHARACTER OUT OF THE SEX AND THE CITY GANG. BUT NOW, THERE SEEMS TO BE A GROWING REALIZATION THAT SHE WAS ACTUALLY ONE OF — IF NOT THE — BEST. WHY DO YOU THINK THAT IS? We have finally moved past the 2007 iconic “ditzy is sexy” phase and are bullet training right into “smart and strong.” People see her now in [these] episodes and are like, omg I love to order Chinese food, watch TV and drink wine, that’s not sad, she just owns her own goddamn apartment and has coin!

MIRANDA HAD SOME PRETTY ICONIC FASHION MOMENTS (THINKING ABOUT THAT BUCKET-HAT-OVER-TEAL-HOODIE COMBO) — HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE MIRANDA’S STYLE? “As free as the wind blows on this beach,” honey she served butch, fish, femme and everything in between. Labels didn’t matter, she had this style that was like, “I know what everyone else will wear today so let me be different.” 

WHAT DOES MIRANDA’S STYLE TELL US ABOUT HER CHARACTER? She is strong, outspoken, but will never take life too serious. One of my favorite fashion moments is the grey suit she wears, it’s very Man Repeller and edgy, she could have been an influencer in her day I swear.

ANY STYLE TIPS WE CAN TAKE FROM HER? Print, layers, and literally wearing anything. She was so different with her fashions, I look back and I’m like, wow Pat Field must have had such a field day coming up with some of those looks! 

WHY DO YOU THINK THERE’S SUCH NOSTALGIA FOR THE NINETIES RIGHT NOW? I think it was a time we had a Clinton in office and people are [now] like fuck, we have this asshole as president let’s just post 90 images and pretend that a Clinton is president. 

WHAT IS ONE OF YOUR FAVORITE MIRANDA MOMENTS ON THE SHOW? This is such a tough one, I will forever have MAJOR FEELINGS when Steve’s mom runs out of the house and Miranda bathes her, I felt like a true Miranda fights being vulnerable so much but can be such a compassionate person. I also love when Miranda flashes the nip. 

DO YOU THINK MIRANDA HAS MADE AN IMPACT ON POP CULTURE? Omg she has made a HUGE impact, I think the real impact started recently with the celebration of independent women and gay men who see themselves in her world.

WHAT IS ONE LIFE LESSON WE CAN LEARN FROM HER? To never stop being yourself! She owned her pointed and opinionated self and everyone else can go fuck off! 

By Yasmine Shemesh

The Studio Series 2.0: Tea Leigh, Tattoo Artist

The simple silhouette and sturdy Japanese canvas fabric of Ilana Kohn’s coveralls allow for them to be totally durable and easily to move around in, which was what drew handpoke tattoo artist Tea Leigh to them. “The coverall is great for me because it’s incredibly functional, simple, and made for almost any setting,” she tells us. “I can easily move in them when I’m tattooing, and I don’t have to worry about getting dirty because I know it’s such a durable fabric.” In her spare time, Tea also photographs and makes music to mainstream creativity outside of work. “I love that I can work in them all day either shooting, tattooing, or at practice and then I can go out and just with a change of shoes the outfit becomes a little dressed up.” Amen. Meet the creative below and check out how amazing she looks in the Ilana Kohn one and done.

The Studio Series 2.0: Shino Takeda, Ceramicist

“I love coveralls, simply because they’re easy and fit my lifestyle, but I especially love Ilana’s,” ceramicist Shino Takeda says. The full-time ceramicist grew up in Kyushu Island in southern Japan and then moved to New York City when she was twenty years old. Working in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Shino’s inspirations comes from the nature she sees, feels, tastes and hears each season. Her work is hand-built using the coil method and several different clay bodies, so the coveralls are basically perfect for her. “I feel like the coverall is even better when it gets dirty with paint and clay! Plus, it has BIG pockets. I can put my iPhone in them and listen to music when I work in my studio or when I go for walks.” Shino shows off her pair and answers all our questions below.

The Studio Series 2.0: Doug Johnston and Tomoe Matsuoka, Artists

“We don’t want to have to worry about what we’re wearing in the studio,” explain artist Doug Johnston. “Eventually all of our clothes become ‘studio’ clothes because we wear them to the studio and they get oil stains or resin or wax or liquid foam on them, or they get ripped.” Doug’s work oscillates between art and design, primarily utilizing a process of coiling and machine-stitching cordage creating an array of functional sculptural objects. He often collaborates with his wife, artist and designer Tomoe Matsuoka, whose work varies from furniture to wearables, space design, performance and photography. Yes, they’re the definition of power couple and, yes, they both rep the Ilana Kohn coveralls well. “We can change into these coveralls when we get to the studio and not worry about ruining our entire wardrobe,” explains Doug Johnston. Plus, they’re super comfortable, simple and stylish, while being truly durable and useful with several big, easily-accessible pockets where we can keep our phones, keys, notes, and snacks!”

Get to know Doug and Tomoe below as they put the coveralls to work.

Meet the Artists We Invited to Draw All Over Our Merch

We spent the weekend at Capsule, the roving independent designer-focused trade show, in New York, joined by some pretty choice company. Along with our curated community of indie designers presenting their spring/summer 2018 collections, we had the pleasure of working with six talented illustrators on some pretty special giveaways. Throughout the weekend, the artists spent hours drawing on exclusive Garmentory tote bags for anybody that stopped by our booth and wanted one, with no limit to their creativity. From self-portraits to animals of all kind, each drawing was one of a kind. We wanted people to leave Capsule with something unique, something memorable, and that’s exactly what these ladies delivered. Their stories, inspirations, mediums and aesthetics are all remarkably different, adding to the uniqueness of their canvas bag creations. Scroll on to get to know the six illustrators and rad women we now happily call our pals.

Gina Schiappacasse

Designer, stylist, and fashion illustrator Gina Schiappacasse, has been obsessively drawing all her life. Originally from Minnesota, she holds a Bachelor of Science in Fashion Design from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, as well as an Associate’s Degree in Fashion Design with an emphasis in illustration from the Fashion Institute of Technology. Gina has now spent nearly a decade living in Brooklyn with her boyfriend and dog, Thelonious.

Living in New York, Gina finds herself inspired by the fashion world: photography, icons, and the city’s stylish denizens. With influence from the style of children’s books and Japanese comic art, Gina’s work is fashion-focused with a playful slant.

WHO ARE YOUR MUSES? “I’m a huge fan of Björk and her constant ability to blur the lines between fashion and art. I also have always loved Alexander McQueen’s dark beauty and the women he dressed, including Daphne McGuiness and Isabella Blow. I’m in love with the photography work of Tim Walker and Sølve Sundsbø, but I also really enjoy drawing my friends and Instagram acquaintances. There’s such an incredible plethora of imagery online that it’s easy to find muses everywhere.”

Youloune

French illustrator Youloune is the kind of artist who carries their sketchbook everywhere they go. She grew up in Normandie, France, lived in Paris for ten years and in January of this year moved to Montreal with her boyfriend to experience somewhere new. Hélène loves to draw what she sees out and about, whether that’s at a concert, sketching the musicians playing as her pencil follows the drum rhythms, or details in jewelry, sculptures, and embroidery shown in museums she often visits. Her illustrations are mesmerizing as she draws as if she is pulling thread from a spool to make silhouettes and stories appear on paper.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE THING TO DO ON A NIGHT IN? “I like reading comics, listening to old vinyl records, and trying to catch my neighbor’s cat! I also take the time to upload all the pictures I took during my daily walks onto my Insta stories.”

Gabriella Cetrulo

Gabriella Cetrulo grew up in a the suburbs of New Jersey before moving to New York City to earn her BFA in Illustration from Parsons. After spending many years working for a tech company as a web curator — her drawing falling wayside — Gabriella is now a freelance writer and illustrator living in Manhattan.

She draws inspiration from old films and photographs, idealizing people from the past and bringing their stranger moments to current time. Once described as “ominous posing as innocuous,” by a close friend, Gabriella’s illustrations embody a strong sense of nostalgia. Through character details such as a hair style or vintage silhouette, she brings decades of the past to the paper in front of her.

ARE YOU A MORNING PERSON? WHAT’S YOUR ROUTINE LIKE? “I’m definitely not a morning person. I could easily sleep until noon if I don’t need to be anywhere. I usually hit the snooze button at least three times, read some things on my phone, check social media, and then get out of bed to make myself tea. I try to meditate in the morning but usually end up doing that before bed because if I’m still tired in the morning, I’ll just fall back asleep!”

Lindsey Balbierz

Lindsey Balbierz is an illustrator whose work lives in many mediums: magazines, book covers, newspapers, as well as live events. She’s the talent behind the cover of I See London, I See France, a book published by Harper Collins, The Boston Globe’s illustrated Sunday real estate section, a custom pet portrait on a Louis Vuitton dopp kit for a long-time loyal customer, and so much more. She also runs an Etsy shop, where she sells pins, patches and stationery adorned with her illustrations. There are no limitations to where Lindsey pulls inspiration from. Seriously, anything from maps to dogs in bags and farmers markets to snow cones, influence her work. All of Lindsey’s illustrated objects, people and environments are friendly and whimsical. Her distinct aesthetic of hand-drawn, brightly, graphic colors is to say the least warm and welcoming.

IF YOU HAD TO PICK UP AND MOVE, WHERE WOULD YOU CHOOSE AND WHY? “My top three would be: 1.) Somewhere outside of Portland, Maine. I’ve always had a dream of buying a farm house and renovating it. The coastal surroundings are so pretty. The lobster is also a bonus. 2.) Maui. I went in 2015 and enjoyed the lush greenery so much! It would allow a slower and more relaxed lifestyle that would be a good change from urban living. 3.) Japan. I have visited Japan twice, but I think moving would allow for a complete immersion of the culture. I’ve taken Japanese classes, but I think moving would force my brain to think in Japanese and therefore force me to speak the language more.”

Danielle Kroll

Danielle Kroll is a textile designer, ceramicist, and — of course — illustrator. She is also the co-founder of Beech Hall, a multi-disciplinary artist collective she started with two university friends selling handmade and one-of-a-kind items such as paintings, ceramics, jewelry and home decor. Inspired by everyday life, childhood memories, objects from the past and nature. Danielle’s illustrations are colorful, painterly and playful but not childlike. Think a skinny pineapple ceramic or quirky depictions of ladies at the beach. Her pieces encourage her viewers to experience a more playful look at life – to always look at the bright side of things.

WHERE DO YOU LOVE TO SHOP IN A CITY FILLED WITH ENDLESS CHOICES? “I mostly shop at vintage stores. The pieces are unique, affordable and it’s really fun for me – I like a good treasure hunt! Dusty Rose Vintage in Greenpoint is my spot in the city: They have a whole room of boxes labeled with specific categories like ‘jumpsuits’ and ’80s high-waisted pants’. “

Lily Qian

DC-born, Brooklyn-based fashion designer-turned-illustrator Lily Qian has been drawing, painting and sewing since childhood. With her inspiration sparked by artists and entrepreneurs, Lily reflects the beauty of everyday life in her work, which is stylistically informed by cinematography, literature, and fashion history (particularly the 1960s and ‘70s). In her 12 years as an illustrator, Lily has worked with fashion and beauty brands ranging from Sephora to OBEY, sought after for her experimental techniques and loose, romantic style.

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE PLACE TO ESCAPE FROM NEW YORK’S CRAZINESS? “My favorite places to escape NYC’s craziness is going hiking in Harriman State Park, visiting Storm King Art Center, Dia Beacon, and long weekends in Montauk.”

Sissy’s Fall 2017: What I’m Into

Our Fashion Editor-At-Large, Sissy Sainte-Marie, shares her current obsessions.

SILVER LAMÉ

Wearing head-to-toe beige cotton everyday is so me. But don’t be shocked if I shift gears and go full-on lurex and lamé this season.

BERETS

I think it was last year’s election that got me feeling a little militant, or maybe it’s merely the Gucci effect, but I’m really into topping my noggin with berets right now. Clyde’s in fawn lambskin is my choice.

DAUGHTERS OF THE DUST

I guess we have Beyonce to thank. Lemonade’s references to this 1991 film about Gullah women at the turn of the 20th century, led to its restoration and re-release late last year. It is a visual masterpiece, a beautiful story, but tbh, I was mostly focused on the costumes.

SLEEPING BEAUTIES

I love my bed so much I recite an ode I wrote called “Oh bed oh bed” to it from time to time. If you, too, can list sleeping as one of your favorite activities, you are going to love the bedspread-inspired runway looks for F/W 2017. Grab a pillow bag from Modern Weaving and you’ve got yourself a look.

CURLS AND BANGS

If it ever looks like I’m having an absence seizure, I’m not. I’m most likely just seriously wondering if I could pull off “Last Tango in Paris” hair.

MENOPAUSAL BLUE

I once heard an older woman in a vintage store describe a dress as “menopausal blue”. I still don’t know what that even means but perhaps it is no coincidence this blue-gray shade is showing up all over catwalks around the same time Manrepeller is trend-reporting on Menocore?

BEN TOMS’ POSTCARDS

Ben Toms’ set of postcards for Owl Cave books. The theme is adaptive mimicry. The title is Untitled.

ALEX CAMERON

This Aussie pantydropper is equal parts humor and heart. Recommended for you if you think Louie Anderson should win a nobel prize for his portrayal of Mama Baskets and that Nick Cave’s Murder Ballads could have had more laughs per minute.

Seven Must-Follow Women on the Front Lines of New Zealand Fashion Week

Before the weeks-long tour de fashion cities — New York, London, Paris, Milan — that make up “Fashion Month” kicks off in September comes the lesser-known New Zealand Fashion Week. Initially an industry-facing trade show, NZFW has evolved in recent years to a vibrant hotbed of local as well as international talent showcasing their collections to thousands of fashion-focused delegates and style-savvy attendees. (Including us this week! Follow along on Instagram for all the fun.)

In celebration of this season’s NZFW, we want to introduce you to seven badass kiwis running the scene. From a baker to an illustrator, these ladies are killing it creatively while exposing just how good New Zealand style is. Get ready for your girl crushes to begin.

CAITLAN MITCHELL, PHOTOGRAPHER AND EDITOR

Caitlin Mitchell was born into the NZ fashion scene, literally: Her parents began one of New Zealand’s first fashion magazines, NZ Apparel, back in 1969. Caitlin’s teen years led to her modeling, eventually inspiring her to try her hand at the other side of the camera as a photographer. A graduate of Whitcliffe College of Arts and Design with degrees in fine arts and business, Caitlin now runs the magazine her parents founded with her siblings while continuing to shoot fashion editorials, musicians, scenery and more. Steeped in fashion from birth, Caitlin has naturally developed her own signature style, incorporating pom pom statement heels, chunky oversized cardigans and the cutest berets, making her an NZ must-follow (especially during fashion week!).

Follow @caitlanmitchell

MARY MAGUET, MODEL

In her own words, Mary Maguet is an “int’l model by day, and a goofball by night.” Born in Kenya, Mary came to New Zealand when she was two years old. She was scouted as a model on a Sunday morning at her church and has quickly become one of the most sought-after local models. She is a NZFW runway vet and has modelled for many notable names such as Karen Walker and Lonely Lingerie. To top it off, she is a total sweetheart and has amazing style. Follow Mary strutting her stuff in not just New Zealand but New York, Milan, Hawaii, you name it.

Follow @pinkishlymojotastic

FRANCA CHRISTINA, CERAMICIST

We predict this style queen-ceramicist is going to blow up in no time. Based in Auckland, Franca works on her exploratory project of beautiful ceramic objects. From geometric vases to a unique cheese platter and mug duo, her pieces are the perfect home additions. Just like us, she is a huge fan of emerging designers. Just head over to her Instagram feed where you will spot Paloma Wool pants, a Kowtow striped jumpsuit, Suzanne Rae’s to-die-for white pumps, and so much more. We highly suggest you take a peek and steal some style inspiration.

Follow @franca_christina

HARRIET + CARTER WERE, PHOTOGRAPHER/KNITTER + BAKER

Meet New Zealand’s coolest twin sisters, Harriet and Carter Were. Both women are creatively-charged, expressed in distinctly different mediums. Harriet is a dual photographer and a knitter; She shoots editorials, photo series, interiors, and a does a portrait project called ‘Lonely Girls’ for Lonely Lingerie as well as knitting texturally-complex clothes and accessories. Carter is a baker known locally for her organic sprouted bread —a recipe that took her two years to perfect! — and seeded sourdough, which she sells through her company Were Bros. Each gal flaunts a compelling Instagram feed: Harriet’s full of lush photography and images of her knit work, and Carter’s an artistic homage to beautiful food. Consider them NZ’s Mary-Kate and Ashley.

Follow @harrywere + @werebros

KELLY THOMPSON, ILLUSTRATOR

Kelly Thompson came into illustration by way of fashion photography, inspired by the models she shot. With a feminine and delicate style, Kelly’s illustrations quickly gained an online following and she now works as full-time freelance artist, speaks at creative events, is the founding director of creative consultancy and illustration agency Maker’s Mgmt, and is constantly collaborating with fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands. With 23K IG followers and counting, her posts are the perfect mix of OOTD shots, illustrations, and creative inspiration.

Follow @kellythompsoncreative

GEORGIA PRATT, MODEL

We may be slightly obsessed with Georgia Pratt’s dreamy style and scruffy dog, Vito Valentino. Trained in fashion design, Georgia was scouted from the shores of New Zealand back in 2012 and has since emerged as a sought-after model. The Auckland-born beauty has walked the runway for Christian Siriano and Tome, starred in Lane Bryant’s Plus Is Equal campaign, and was named alongside Candice Huffine and Katy Smye as the “Models Out to Change Plus-Size Fashion” by Vogue. It’s safe to say, Georgia won’t be slowing down anytime soon. Head over to her feed for refreshing snaps of beauty, fashion and everyday life.

Follow @jojacalled

In Conversation With Jewelry Designer Pamela Love

You don’t need an introduction to Pamela Love. The New York City-based jewelry designer has been a household name to anyone following fashion for nearly a decade, racking up countless magazine credits, stockists, collaborations, and awards. The brand’s blend of on-the-nose aesthetics, careful material sourcing, and made in America production quality has proved to be the perfect storm for continued success in the rocky retail climate that’s emerged since Love began tinkering with jewelry making back in 2007. We spoke with the established-indie designer on dealing with copycats, price point backlash, design integrity, and more. Read on for more on the balance of art and commerce with Pamela Love.

CONGRATS ON TEN YEARS IN BUSINESS — THAT’S PRETTY REMARKABLE. Thank you! I kind of feel like it’s a cheat to say ten years because the first two years I was experimenting; I sort of sold stuff, but not really. It’s always funny to say we’re ten years old and we started the company in 2007 because I think from 2007 to 2009 was just me fucking around and I think I sold to one store. I don’t know if we’re allowed to count those first two years as, like, “doing business,” as much as it was like, “Pam playing around.”

WHAT WAS THE MOMENT WHEN IT FELT LIKE “OFFICIALLY” A BUSINESS? It got to a point where I had to get an office space, and I had to quit my day job because I didn’t have time to juggle both. It was a great feeling, but also really sad, because I loved my other job. But I couldn’t juggle everything, so I had to pick.

It was a great feeling to be creating something that was supporting me and other people, I was able to hire some jewelers. It was a great feeling to be able to see that I was able to support jobs here [in the US] and myself. As soon as I was old enough to work, I was working. So it was really nice to be able to be a business owner.

AND NOW YOU’RE DOING YOUR FIRST STORE, WITH THE CFDA RETAIL LAB. Yes, we have a temporary retail space through the end of September. We’ve done little shop-in-shops, but this is the first time I’ve gotten to curate a space and, for the most part, get to represent the brand the way I would if I had my own store.

IF THE PERFECT STORE SPACE PRESENTED ITSELF AND YOU COULD DROP IT INTO ANY NEW YORK CITY NEIGHBORHOOD, WHERE WOULD YOU OPEN? Probably on the Bowery. I’ve been obsessed with this one building forever — it’s right across the street from the Bowery Hotel — that’s housed a variety of brands over the years, and I’ve had this dream that I would one day occupy this space on the Bowery. I don’t know if that will happen or not — it seems to be occupied currently.

WHAT DRAWS YOU TO THAT SPACE? I love that neighborhood, I love the architecture of that building, the interiors are really great, there’s a lot to work with. I just always found it to be a really magical spot.

I CAN’T IMAGINE THIS IS THE FIRST OFFER THAT’S COME FOR YOU TO DO A STORE. WHY DID THE CFDA OPPORTUNITY FEEL RIGHT? We love the CFDA. They’re so supportive and they make projects like this available to brands who may not be able to front [the money]. Their programs allow us to experience things we wouldn’t otherwise get to experience. I’ve always wanted to open a store, but I never thought it made sense for us, financially, to do that right now.

THE CFDA HAS BEEN REALLY GOOD TO YOU. I love the CFDA.

HOW DID YOU GET HOOKED UP WITH THEM TO BEGIN WITH? We applied for the Vogue Fashion Fund many years ago, and we didn’t get in. And we applied again the next year, and I was finalist, and then a runner up. After that, we applied to be a CFDA member, and since then my brand has won the Swarovski accessories design and the CFDA Award for accessories design. That was something we were nominated for three times, and in the third year we won. I think it’s actually kind of cooler, because I got to go through it three times, which puts attention on your brand for three years. I was so excited to win the third time instead or the first time — or at least that’s what I told my team.

WHAT DO YOU IMAGINE YOUR GROWTH WOULD HAVE LOOKED LIKE WITHOUT THE SUPPORT OF THE CFDA? I don’t think we’d be here without Vogue, without the CFDA. I think I would have given up at a much earlier time. The access to mentors and people who can help grow and guide you was so integral to the growth of my business.

There are so many factors that go into whether or not your brand is successful, so I don’t think the CFDA is a silver bullet, but I do think it is an integral ingredient and wonderful support structure for finding success.

IN YOUR EARLY DAYS, YOU WERE KNOWN FOR A CERTAIN AESTHETIC: THE TALONS, THE DAGGERS. WHAT’S YOUR RELATIONSHIP LIKE NOW WITH THOSE PIECES? It’s a funny thing that happens when you start a company at 25, 26 and then you grow up. I was a single girl living in Greenpoint, wearing cut-off denim shorts and combat boots, started getting tattoos, I thought I was so cool, I smoked cigarettes, and the [brand] aesthetic was very much that. And at some point it started to transition to be more bohemian, but at some point you grow up and you want to make things that you identify with, that you would wear every day and not just things that you know will sell whether or not they appeal to you any more. That’s been an interesting transition for us. Some of the pieces won’t really die, for lack of a better word, and at a certain point you say, “This isn’t who we are any more, so I don’t offer this.”

And we’re changing again. Next season [spring 2018] is going to be very interesting, because we’re sort of going to be closer to going back to home but with a very different point of view. It’s going back to the origins of the brand but with more of a sense of humor and not taking itself so seriously.

Those transitions can be hard because people do think of you as one thing, and it’s hard for them to think of you as something else. There are definitely some mistakes I’ve made, from a design perspective, or designing on the requests of a retailer versus going with your gut. It’s a learning process. You’re not going to do everything right every time.

WHAT IS THAT LIKE WITH RETAILERS, WHEN THEY HAVE ASKED YOU TO REPRODUCE SOMETHING YOU MIGHT NOT BE INTO ANYMORE, BUT THAT YOU KNOW WILL MAKE YOU MONEY? I definitely have made mistakes making things I didn’t stand behind because it satisfies something the retailer needed, but I’ve learned that’s not the way to do it. If you wouldn’t wear it, if you don’t stand behind it, it doesn’t matter if it sells well or not because ultimately it’s not going to communicate your brand properly, and it’s going to detract from your brand’s strengths. So I decided I’m only going to make things I want to wear, and if that works, great, and if it doesn’t work for a retailer, unfortunately that’s it.

I’ve been doing this a long time, and it’s a learning process. Right now, we’re in the process of learning what it’s like to listen to ourselves 100% and follow my gut and the gut of my team, and see what happens.

WHAT HAVE YOU LEARNED OVER TIME ABOUT PRICE POINTS? It’s still kind of a mystery to me. It’s harder now because there’s always a cheaper alternative to what you’re doing, and that can be challenging, because people are always looking for something more affordable, but at the end of the day you have to stand by your quality and your manufacturing, and if it’s more expensive than someone else, and someone else is able to do it cheaper, there’s really nothing you an do to control that. We just try to stand behind our work and how much it costs.

It does get to me some times when people complain the product is too expensive. That’s always hard, because you want everyone to be able to afford your stuff, especially people who love it, but at the same time we don’t want to compromise quality.

I posted a picture of a ring on Instagram yesterday, and somebody commented, “I loved this, until I saw that it was $2,400,” and it was a piece of fine jewelry. I didn’t want to respond or say anything, there’s nothing to do. That person doesn’t understand how much something like that costs and that’s the end of it.

I love how democratic it is to work in sterling or brass, because of how many people you can reach with it. But I also love creating one-of-a-kind things with some of the best materials in the world, and that, unfortunately, is not so democratic and affordable.

HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH COPYCATS? DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST ONE? Yeah. I remember the first time. It hurt so much. It was some random brand in Europe. It was a girl with a blog who also made jewelry, and she knocked off the talon cuff, which was our best seller at the time. I was so upset, and I tried to reach out and contact her and ask her to stop. Apparently that’s a big no-no — you don’t contact them. But I thought if I could explain how important it was to my business and to my livelihood that maybe she would stop. But she didn’t. And then there were a lot of copies after, and ultimately what you realize is you just have to keep doing what you do. If you get tired of a piece, you move on from it, if you love a piece and you’re not ready to move on from it and it gets copied, you still make it as well as you can, and nobody can really take that integrity from you. If a high street retailer copies you, [their product] isn’t going to have that integrity or that craftsmanship, and a customer who cares about that isn’t going to buy it from them, they’re going to buy it from you. A customer who doesn’t care about that is probably going to go to the high street retailer anyway, and they weren’t your customer in the first place.

WHAT’S YOUR ATTITUDE TOWARDS CELEBRITY FANS OF THE BRAND AND INFLUENCERS? It’s always very, very flattering when anyone you admire wears your product, but I never want to make [celebrities] too much of what we’re about. We’re more about every girl. We’re excited about girls from every walk of life doing cool, awesome stuff and trying to change the world. And whomever they are — a celebrity or your neighbor who works at Greenpeace — for me, it’s about righteous women who are doing awesome stuff. I want to support them and I want them to support me back. If those women are celebrities, that’s awesome, but I wouldn’t share that more than someone else I look up to who is maybe in another field.

By Nicola Fumo

All photography by Chloé Horseman

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The Insider’s Guide To Seattle

As the largest metropolis of the Pacific Northwest, there is no shortage of things to do, sites to see, and people to know in Seattle, WA. The city has something for everyone, from picturesque mountains to diverse neighborhoods, all sandwiched between the epic Pacific ocean and the second largest freshwater lake in Washington. Seattle is famously known for its iconic Space Needle, rainy reputation, and being home to the first Starbucks — but we wanted to dig a little deeper and uncover the city’s lesser-known gems. Plus, it also happens to be the home of Garmentory’s stateside HQ. This is where our network of local boutiques and designers comes in. Not to brag, but we happen to work with some of the city’s coolest creatives, so instead of relying on dusty tourist books or travel apps, we asked them to reveal the best places to eat, drink, and people watch. Start planning your west coast adventure now.

WHERE TO EAT

“Food is high on the list of reasons why I love this city,” boasts Alisa Furoyama, co-owner of design shop Glasswing. She suggests heading to “Single Shot, especially for weekend brunch, Harry’s Fine Foods for breakfast or lunch, Juicebox for a wellness shot, Plum for vegetarian, and Agua Verde for summer tacos.”

Single Shot, 611 Summit Ave E

Harry’s Fine Foods, 601 Bellevue Ave E

Juicebox, 1517 12th Ave #100

Plum Bistro, 1429 12th Ave

Agua Verde, 1303 NE Boat St

Julia Briggs, founder of New Jersey boutique Mothers + Daughters, recently made the move to Seattle and like Alisa, she loves Harry’s Fine Food for brunch!” She also notes “Suika (below) and Japanese food in general. The sushi here is amazing.”

Suika, 611 Pine St

Suk Chai, designer of womenswear label SCHAI, has a few must-eat recommendations: “Sitka and Spruce, Oddfellows, Whale Wins, Walrus and Carpenter,” she suggests.”You can’t go wrong dining at restaurants who create food inspired by locally sourced and foraged ingredients,” she adds.

Sitka and Spruce, 1531 Melrose Ave

Oddfellows, 1525 10th Ave

The Whale Wins, 3506 Stone Way N

The Walrus and the Carpenter, 4743 Ballard Ave NW

Deborah Roberts, co-owner of Belltown boutique RIZOM and the designer behind ready-to-wear line Silvae, reveals that Cascina Spinasse is her go to for a special meal. “They focus on recipes and techniques from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, while incorporating products of artisans and small farmers from the Pacific Northwest.” Her inside tip: “Sit at the bar where you have a great view of the open kitchen and can watch the pasta being made by hand.”

Cascina Spinasse, 1531 14th Ave

WHERE TO DRINK

Forget Starbucks, Seattle has what feels like a limitless amount of places to grab a cup of Jo. The two best according to our Alisa and Suk: Analog and Caffe Vita.

Analog, 235 Summit Ave E

Caffe Vita, multiple locations

Now let’s talk happy hour. “If it’s a weeknight, Foreign National for interesting flavors,” says Alisa, “or Sun Liquor (above) for cocktails and something cozy.” Deborah is also an advocate for both Foreign National and Sun Liquor.

Foreign National, 300 E Pike St

Sun Liquor, 607 Summit Ave E

“Nothing beats the Fremont Brewery,” Julia argues. “We have kids so it’s hard for us to go out a lot and this place is so wonderfully family friendly! Not to mention the view! Swoon. If you’re looking for a good mixed drink, Oddfellows in Cap-Hill makes my favorite bourbon cocktail.”

Fremont Brewery, 1050 N 34th St

WHERE TO PEOPLE WATCH

Deborah has a whole day planned where you can sneak in some ideal people watching. “In the heart of Capitol Hill, Oddfellows cafe/bar is a great place for people watching. Afterwards, grab ice cream at Molly Moons (above) on east Pine Street and head to Cal Anderson park, or go down the block to Elliott Bay Books for some travel reading.” Okay, that’s three times Oddfellows has been suggested. As the ideal place to grab a bite, drinks and people watch, it’s officially at the top of our list.

Molly Moons, multiple locations

Cal Anderson Park, 1635 11th Ave

Elliott Bay Books, 1521 10th Ave

“I’d have to say the Ballard farmers market (below)!” says Julia. “We love strolling through all the farmers markets in Seattle and we’re so lucky to have them in different neighborhoods year round. We spend all day Sunday between Fremont and Ballard checking out local makers, vintage sellers and farmers. It’s a dream.”

Ballard Farmers Market, 5300 Ballard Ave NW

Suk heads to The Olympic Sculpture Park (below). “You get the locals and you get the tourists. You get the earth and art-conscious, and you get selfie addicts. All are worth watching,” she confesses. That sounds like the ultimate people watching day.

Olympic Sculpture Park, 2901 Western Ave

Bonus: We’ve teamed up with these guys for an exclusive flash sale! Shop ‘em all at up to 85% off, but only until August 30. This way >

Lead image by Benjamin Benschneider

Woman We Love: Eden Hagos

It’s been an inspiring summer for Eden Hagos. The Sudan-born, Los Angeles-based DJ has spent part of the dog days traveling throughout East Africa, wholly absorbing the beauty of her land and culture, which, she says, have always been a point of reference for her, creatively.

Of course, Eden has made a name for herself with the way she blends her ties to her roots with an instinctive ability to cultivate the freshest, most original beats. She honors representation, diversity and innovation through thoughtful sampling and re-worked cuts (her latest playlist, “Her Favourite Beats,” is a perfect example), remaining firmly entrenched in respect and positive energy.

It’s a thread of integrity that not only weaves into the fabric of Eden’s work, but also how she navigates through life, from mindful style choices to the way she commands her place in a male-dominated industry. A thread that’s made her a go-to for tastemaker label Soulection and festivals like Women In Music and Afropunk. “I pride myself in being a strong, opinionated woman driven by a strong moral compass,” she adds. “If it doesn’t feel good to me, I won’t engage in or support it.”

With open ears and an assured sense of self, Eden’s star continues to shine, enlighten, and rise.

YOU’RE IN ETHIOPIA RIGHT NOW. HOW HAS THE TRIP BEEN? It’s been amazing! The continent of Africa is home. I’m Eritrean by heritage, but I was born in Sudan and immigrated to the U.S. as a toddler. I’m a proud Habesha, which is an umbrella term for individuals from Eritrea or Ethiopia.

I love traveling, whether it is for a music gig or a consulting project. For me, there is nothing more inspiring and eye-opening than leaving your hotel and going for a walk in a new city, especially at night. The sounds you hear, the street style you see, the food you smell and conversations you overhear — each of these add strings to the fabric of your soul. I always make sure to soak in as much as possible.

ON INSTAGRAM, YOU’VE POSTED SOME WONDERFUL VIDEOS OF MUSIC AND DANCE FROM YOUR TRAVELS. WHAT KIND OF ROLE HAVE YOU SEEN THESE THINGS PLAY IN EAST AFRICAN CULTURE? The various tribes and ethnic groups of each East African country have their own distinct music, culture and tradition. Music and dance has always played a vital role in my culture. It means so much more than having a good time. In many ways, African music is a utilitarian function used in vital aspects of life such as a child’s naming ceremony, initiation rights, religious ceremonies, etc.

HAVE YOU DISCOVERED ANY ARTISTS YOU’RE PARTICULARLY EXCITED ABOUT WHILE YOU’VE BEEN THERE? Yes! I discovered Jano band while I was in Ethiopia. I was in town at the time working on a story for an online women’s platform and our translator found out I was an a DJ. He was a big fan of the band and took me to a record shop on my last day to purchase their album for me as a gift. I love what Jano band represents, which is this new sound that blends traditional East African music with more modern rock and future beat sounds. I would love to see them try and attempt a crossover here in the United States. I think they have a shot and I would love to help them attempt that.

YOU’VE TALKED ABOUT HOW A FUGEES ALBUM FIRST SPARKED YOUR INTEREST IN BEATS. WHICH RECORD WAS IT AND WHAT DID YOU REALLY CONNECT WITH? During my adolescence, I had a step uncle come and visit our family. It was our first time meeting him and he asked me what I wanted as a gift, so he brought me the Fugees album. Lauryn Hill resonated with me because she addressed topics I could relate to, such as feminism and spirituality. Her honesty and openness was incredibly inspiring and she represented a natural, wholesome look which spoke to me. It is because of her that I always say representation matters.

YOU JUST RELEASED YOUR NEW PLAYLIST, “HER FAVOURITE BEATS.” WHAT KIND OF VIBE WERE YOU GOING FOR? A chill vibe. I honestly just wanted to put together a compilation of songs that I had discovered over the past few months, including while I was in Ethiopia. I wanted to share the music that has been inspiring me.

THE PLAYLIST FEATURES GREATS LIKE BARRINGTON LEVY AND SADE, BUT ALSO SOME LESSER-KNOWN ARTISTS. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT A COUPLE OF THEM AND HOW YOU DISCOVERED THEIR MUSIC? The selections reflect the different sounds that have shaped me as an artist. Most are sample, reworked beats which are what I am actually known for and enjoy most. I love to find unique sounds and find a way to bridge together different cultures, genres and sounds. As an aspiring producer and as a selecta, I tend to tune in to samples and instrumental usage when I listen to music.

YOU ALSO INCLUDED RAMRIDDLZ’ TRACK, “HABAESHA.” HOW HAS YOUR CULTURE INFLUENCED YOU CREATIVELY? My culture/Africa has been and will ways be a reference point for me.

HAVE YOU EXPERIENCED ANY CHALLENGES BEING A FEMALE DJ WORKING IN A MALE-DOMINATED INDUSTRY? HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE CHALLENGES? Yes, I have experienced unique challenges because of my gender. However, I have been able to overcome these challenges by staying true to myself. I pride myself in being a strong, opinionated woman driven by a strong moral compass. If it doesn’t feel good to me, I won’t engage in or support it. I have to be picky about the artists I support and labels/brands/companies I work with. I’ve been inspired by fearless women who have been unafraid of the ridicule, double standards and any other setbacks. I also make sure to surround myself with a close knit group of friends and mentors that genuinely care about my well being.

LET’S TALK STYLE. DO YOUR ONSTAGE AND DAY-TO-DAY STYLES DIFFER? WHAT DO THEY REPRESENT ABOUT YOU? My day and night slightly differ. I like to keep everything simple and clean. I tend to get overwhelmed with over-the-top ensembles. I’m into African inspired breathable clothing with lots of movement and a minimal aesthetic. I also love everything green and earth tone, I’m very inspired by nature. Minimalism is top of mind for me. I truly believe that if you want to lead a minimal life, assessing your wardrobe and living space is a great place to start. You have to de-clutter and get rid of what you don’t need, so you can make room for new energy.

HAVE YOU PICKED UP ANY SPECIAL PIECES WHILE YOU’VE BEEN IN EAST AFRICA? I purchased several dresses, gold, lots of fabric and traditional incense for Bunna (coffee) ceremony.

THROUGH YOUR WORK, WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO BRING YOUR LISTENERS? I’m just being myself and I hope that shines through and resonates with people. I stand for greater representation of people of colour and women in music and technology. My hope is to facilitate experiences, offer platforms for individual’s voices to be heard, and for people to find a connection to their own stories through my music and other artistic projects.

eden-hagos.com

By Yasmine Shemesh.