denim – Garmentory Magazine

How 5 of our favorite cool girls found their favorite jeans

We’ve all been there: scrolling and screen capturing through Instagram, in search of outfit inspiration. Losing track of time, but gaining fashion advice by the second. A few taps can take you through most outfit details, but what about those jeans the woman you love wear over and over? The ones that are never tagged? To get a little extra inspiration for our constant hunt for the perfect pair of jeans, we caught up with five of our favorite cool girls to follow to find out where, how and when they scored their favorite pair of jeans.

MARI GIUDICELLI, SHOE DESIGNER AND MODEL, BROOKLYN, NY

“I found these at a shitty thrift store in Brooklyn, and love how unique they are. I wonder if they are juniors. I love the texture of it, the faded line on the legs and the fit which is just perfect.” @marigiudicelli

ELISE JOSEPH, FREELANCE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, NASHVILLE, TN

“I inherited this pair of old men’s APC jeans from a much-shorter friend of mine, but I love how they’ve broken in to fit me just right, and the cropped length doesn’t bother me. What were once a pair of stiff, rigid denim now feel like a worn-in dream.” @pennyweight (Photo by Arden Wray for Boots & Pine)

BRITTANY BATHGATE, BLOGGER, NORWICH, UK

“My favorite pair of denim is a vintage pair of Levis 501s. Before finding these jeans I had gone through so much trial and error with denim, 501s in particular, before finding ‘the one’. It wasn’t until my pal Sophie at Finch came along and answered my denim prayers. She had been collecting vintage 501s for some time, and just so happened to have a smaller pair in her collection which fit me perfectly. They’ve broken in perfectly and have this dreamy wash and feel to them that you can’t find in new denim. I cut them myself for a cropped frayed look. I reach for them so often that they’ve become almost like a faithful best friend.” @brittanybathgate

HELEN LEVI, CERAMICIST, BROOKLYN, NY

“I love the 1969 606 jeans from Levi’s. I have two pairs. They’re pretty spendy but if you wait for a sale online they’re so worth it. And no, they didn’t come with a rip in the knee! They’re worth it to me because they reference all the vintage jeans I’ve been searching for, but they actually fit my body and have just a tiny bit of stretch which helps them be comfortable all day without getting too loose. And the rise is high so I don’t have plumber butt, but it’s not too high that it’s not comfy. Can you tell I’m all about comfort?!” @helen_levi (Photo by Backyard Bill)

VIRGINIA CALDERON, MARKETING/SOCIAL MEDIA AT OBJECTS WITHOUT MEANING, LOS ANGELES, CA

“I love denim. I’m kind of denim hoarder/collector. Nothing gets me more excited than finding a beautiful pair of vintage jeans. Pure bliss. I love how all the washes are uniquely different. My favorite pair would have to be my orange tab 517 Levi’s that I scored for $5.” @_chicadeoro

An ode to the Canadian tuxedo

Let’s face it: Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake didn’t do this look any favors when they hit the red carpet in matching denim on denim outfits back in 2001. But ironically, they kind of revived it. Ever since then the Canadian tuxedo went from being mocked to being adored. Much of that, luckily, is due to style stars doing it better. From the runway to the street, the denim on denim trend just keeps building. Now? We’re pretty much sold on the fact that it’s a look that won’t ever go out of style. The fable goes that Bing Crosby was the first to sport one after getting trouble for wearing all denim at a fancy Canadian establishment in 1951. So of course Levi Strauss & Co. made him an actual denim tuxedo. While we don’t necessarily condone the literal take on this (although Caron Callahan makes something that’s pretty close and pretty amazing), we do recommend wearing the denim on denim style that feels right for you. Canadian tuxedos can involve skirts, t-shirts, crop tops, whatever feels right for your personal style really. Of course, we thought you might heed the expertise of a few people doing it so right below.

Everything but skinny jeans

After all that time it took getting used to skinny jeans, it’s hard to let them go. We get it! They’re comfy and you know yourself in them now! You know what shoes to wear, what kind of shirt works best for the kind of mood you’re in. But isn’t it time for a little leg room? Mom jeans, dad jeans, flares, wide leg, sailor pants… whatever you choose there’s a whole wide (pun intended) world of jeans out there. If there was ever a time to embrace denim’s new silhouette, it would be this season. Whether you’re ready to dip your toe in with a slightly relaxed version of your skinny jeans or looking for a denim wardrobe makeover, we’ve got you. Here are nine of our favorite jeans that are anything but skinny.

The Palatines designer’s inspiration for our exclusive collaboration

Jessica Taft Langdon, the talented designer behind The Palatines, gives us some visual insight into her inspiration for the exclusive slide she designed for our collaboration.

“The thing about denim is that it’s everywhere. It’s totally ubiquitous. It’s become such a staple of every wardrobe, that it can go completely unnoticed. It’s reliable, it’s quiet, but it’s great. It can become anything you want it to be. It’s iconic and anonymous at once. That kind of subtlety is the aesthetic that informs my approach to designing for The Palatines. I want the shoes to be able to go in almost any direction, stylistically. They can be worn in a quiet, unobtrusive way, or they can become more of the statement. Maybe they even become ubiquitous.”

The 5 denim essentials every woman needs

Okay, so 17 pairs of jeans can sometimes feel pretty effin’ essential. Sometimes they REALLY are (when you stumble on a vintage Levi’s goldmine, for example). But for that capsule kind of wardrobe, the one with all those versatile pieces working overtime and stowing neatly away in a compact closet or suitcase, you’re going to need to narrow things down. Not a denim collector? Then it’s time to update your jean dreams with staple silhouettes that will stand the test of trends. Don’t worry, we’ve got you. Here’s the complete edited list of timeless denim essentials every single woman should have in her closet.

THE DENIM SHIRT

Let’s start from the top down. Whether you go chambray or heavy-duty denim, a jean shirt is a staple that will work for 9-to-5, off-duty and everything in between. Dress it up with a midi skirt and heels, or down with slightly darker denim for a classic Canadian tuxedo. Originating from workwear, just like the classic 5-pocket jean, a denim button-up is a wardrobe workhorse that you’ll find yourself reaching for over and over again. We’re partial to a longer version, hitting mid-thigh, for extra versatility and an updated silhouette. Above: Micaela Greg Light Denim Button Up

THE JEAN JACKET

Borrowed from the boys is a classic take on the denim jacket – oversized, rolled sleeves – which is natural considering the workwear beginnings of Levi Strauss and James Dean’s signature style. But it was Marilyn Monroe’s fitted version that brought the jean jacket into a whole new world of fashion icon status. Whether you like the boyfriend fit or a more feminine tailoring version, there’s something that will work for everyone now (proof here) making this wear-with-everything jacket even more versatile. The denim jacket puts a cool-girl spin on pretty much anything: elegant dresses, office skirts and shirts, we could go on. But we’d rather you try it for yourself. Above: Alexander Wang Daze Oversize Denim Jacket

STRAIGHT LEG JEANS

Mom jeans, dad jeans or cropped, the timeless lines of a fitted straight leg jean will look great no matter the trends. Go for a flattering high-waisted silhouette and find a pair that falls straight down from the hip for the longest leg line. Put your own personal style on the fit with a cool wash, patchwork treatment or chopped hem. With a basic straight leg jean, it’s all in the details. We love them ankle length, the best cut for showing off your shoes. Above: Carleen Two-Tone Jeans

BLACK SKINNY JEANS

There’s a reason why black pants have been a forever piece in women’s closets for decades: they always work. Audrey Hepburn new it, Alexa Chung knows it. Which is why the black skinny jean will be the one left standing in the fight over the future of skinny jeans. And why they’re worth an investment. Pick a mid-rise or high waist, go for premium denim that fits just right, wash sparingly, and the calculate your cost per wear. Above: 3×1 NYC W3 High Rise Crop Skinny

FLARED DENIM

Flared jeans and wide leg denim keep coming back into style for a simple reason: they’re flattering. They give you an hourglass waist, make your legs look longer and balance proportions like nobody’s business. So give in, it’s not just a fad. They’re perfect for those days you want an outfit that makes you feel bold, fashion-forward and excudes confidence. Okay, so that’s all the time. Above: Kohzo Flare Cut Jean

7 under the radar denim lines we love

The best thing about buying a pair of jeans in an indie boutique is the curation of labels you probably have never heard of. Alongside mega brands and standby vintage jeans, each season there’s something and someone new to discover. Here are seven denim designers that are poised to take over in a big way.

SIMON MILLER

When it comes to cropped, wide leg and novel washes, this is the new guarde in designer denim. Daniel Corrigan launched Simon Miller as a men’s denim brand first in 2008 and later developed into a full-fledged lifestyle brand with men and women’s ready to wear clothing and bags. The American designer left his hometown of Seattle to study at the California Institute of the Arts before settling in Santa Barbara. His partner Chelsea Hansford joined Simon Miller as Brand Director before later becoming a Creative Director in 2015. Chelsea has been a catalyst in pushing the brand forward and played a major role in launching the women’s wear and accessories collections. The label focuses on quality American craftsmanship combined with Japanese garment dyeing techniques. Shop Simon Miller >

“This industry is the worst. It’s so dictated by a specific type of person who chooses what people want to look like. I hope that I’m at least part of the movement for change.” Since the first collection flew off the shelves at Assembly in New York, 69’s collection of unisex, non-demographic clothing has kept us wanting more. The designer of the brand is anonymous and chooses to remain so, shunning the typical, public expectations of social media. Femininity and masculinity are brought together with loose, oversized silhouettes, fashion-forward washes and billowy tops and jumpsuits. Shop 69 >

3×1 NYC

Whether it’s novelty denim or staple jeans, this New York City-based line masters it all. Launched in 2011, 3×1 was Scott Morrison’s third denim venture (named for this fact and because of the brand’s weaving construction, the “3×1 Right Hand Twill”). Scott is the man behind Paper Denim & Cloth (founded in 1999) and Earnest Sewn (launched in 2004), so he was already a pioneer in the industry before launching 3×1. His love of Japanese and Turkish raw selvedge denim has inspired it all since day one. No one does luxury denim quite like Morrison and limited edition, custom and bespoke jeans are this brand’s specialty. The price range varies drastically from $295 for a pair of limited edition jeans to $1,200 and up for the bespoke service. For 3×1’s growing fan base, the luxurious quality and unbeatable fit makes each pair worth every single dime. Shop 3×1 >

B-SIDES

It all began in New York when a mutual friend introduced founders Stacy Daily and Claire Lampert. They had both moved east – Claire grew up in Minnesota and Stacy in Michigan – so they were fast friends, bonding over a love of vintage clothing, upcycling and denim. First came friendship, then came business as the pair founded the influential vintage store Where I Was From. It wasn’t long before they decided to launch B-Sides, a denim label which transforms vintage jeans from the southwest into something totally new, all in their Brooklyn studio. Since they went into business together, they have collaborated with rad brands like Assembly, Ace & Jig and No.6. As far as we’re concerned everything they touch turns to gold, so consider this denim with the midas touch. Shop B-Sides >

NAKED & FAMOUS

We’re willing to bet you know at least two guys who swear by this Canadian denim line. Naked & Famous was created by Brandon Svarc when he decided bring something to the designer denim table that didn’t involve a celebrity and celebrated the raw denim. One thing you will never find in a Naked & Famous collection is distressed denim – Brandon hates it. Sleek and simple styles are a constant in every collection with five main fits for men and three for women. Innovative fabrics and unusual treatments and washes are where this brand goes all out. Naked & Famous prides itself on unique, novelty fabrics such as selvedge and Kevlar denim, cashmere denim, multicolor nep fabrics and even scratch and sniff denim. As if we needed any more reasons to love this growing label, every pair of jeans is manufactured in Canada using high quality Japanese denim. Shop Naked & Famous >

STONED IMMACULATE

This California-based line of denim is the answer to all of our ’70s love child dreams. Chloe Chippendale created Stoned Immaculate with her partner Chace after first building a career in the fashion industry as a stylist. The raw, inhibited culture of the 1970s and 1960s constantly influence the vibe of each collection – think fitted flares, patchwork denim and pastel suede. They officially launched in 2014 with their selvedge denim and reworked vintage jeans and have already garnered a cult following with denim heads and fashion editors alike. Bonus points: they produce collections in small batches in California so sustainability is also a constant. Perfectly imperfect is also the brand’s MO. All flaws are treasured by Chloe and Chace, considered part of the denim’s story. We can’t wait to make them part of ours. Shop Stoned Immaculate >

WOOD WOOD

“Wood Wood is much more than a brand. It’s about style and attitude. We were raised with the desire to constantly evolve and we’ll keep on taking the brand even further by combining elements of underground and high-end into our very own aesthetic.” It was love at first sight when we were first introduced to this Danish label by Karl-Oskar and Brian SS Jensen. Founded in Copenhagen in 2002, Wood Wood is a comprehensive lifestyle brand, but with ’90s art, graffiti and street culture inspiring them, they apply their aesthetic to denim for a totally unique perspective. They mix high-fashion with urban streetwear, sophistication with sport. Look for tailored denim with cool-girl silhouettes and details. Shop Wood Wood >

Need a few new rules to go with the new denim labels to love? Sissy Sainte-Marie is at your service.

Photos (from the top) courtesy: Arcade Original, Stand Up Comedy, Assembly, Colleen Eversman, @nakedandfamous, B-Sides, Rider for Life, and Arcade Original.

Anabela Piersol on fashion’s enduring love of blue jeans

To help kick off Denim Month, our contributing editor Anabela Piersol of Fieldguided gathered her favorite inspiration in an ode to blue jeans.

“Is there any fabric in fashion that is more classic, more enduring, or more versatile? Available in deep indigo hues to the palest of blues, it’s easy to see why jeans have become iconic. From high fashion to work-wear, from Hollywood to the runway to the street, denim will continue to endure forever.”

Exclusive: The Palatines x Garmentory x Sissy Sainte-Marie

Inspired by our mutual obsession with denim, and its designer roots in the Los Angeles Fashion District, we’re excited to introduce you to the perfect summer shoe. Seriously. Designer Jessica Taft Langdon created the Palatines’ Caelum Slide in Slate in a special limited edition quantity just for us… well, you. She and stylist extraordinaire Sissy Sainte-Marie became fast friends after some mutual admiration on social media, so she was the perfect person to style and model this special collaboration.

Shop The Palatines x Garmentory Caelum Slide >

“I love this Palatines slide so much,” says Sissy. “I have it in three colors and wouldn’t mind having three more. They look good with everything and have the ability to dress up what needs dressing-up and and dress down what needs dressing-down.”

“As is very typical for me, the inspiration came from the material itself,” explains Jessica. “I saw a small stack of beautiful hides at a leather supplier here in LA. The color, natural finish and softness hooked me, and I bought all of the remaining stock. I’d put it aside in the studio, and knew I’d find a good use for it eventually.” Enter Garmentory and our need for all things denim and we found the perfect fit for the almost indigo hue. “It’s as easily wearable as a favorite pair of jeans. And since all of our shoes have a very soft leather lining, they’ll mold to your foot, in the same way that your Levi’s shrink to fit!”

Shop The Palatines x Garmentory Caelum Slide >

Another detail about The Palatines x Garmentory Caelum Slide we’re so excited about is the impeccable comfort and fit. There’s a hidden thong that keeps the foot from sliding and your toes from cramping so you’ll be wearing these babies allllll summer long.

Only a few of these slides are available, so don’t hesitate. Shop Now

12 ways to wear Spring’s new denim mood

Designers have reimagined denim every which way for Spring 2016. Classic blue jeans are either vintage or repurposed, while indigo and varied denim washes do double duty on pretty much everything you can imagine. Kimono-inspired jackets, sailor pants, comfy shoes, denim tanks and denim dresses… We had a hard time narrowing down our faves, but here’s 12 to inspire the season’s new denim mood.

The new denim rules with Sissy Sainte-Marie

You know how we love our denim here at Garmentory, so we teamed up with Los Angeles-based stylist Sissy Sainte-Marie to dive right into the blue. We’ve long believed in the power of a pair of jeans (or, you know, 10), but with key updates to fits and silhouettes and fashion’s latest love affair with head to toe denim, it’s a whole new world of indigo. We’ve finally embraced the Canadian tuxedo in a real way, and mom jeans, cropped flares and wide leg silhouettes have eclipsed our desire for skinny jeans and boyfriend jeans. Here, Sissy shows us how the new rules are done right now.

Above: Terrible Records t-shirt; 69 jeans from Assembly Los Angeles. Earrings are Sissy’s own from Faris. Shoes throughout by The Palatines, a sneak peek at our exclusive collaboration available May 5th.

Creatures of Comfort quilted jacket (similar here) and pants (similar here).

HOW CAN WE APPROACH CLASSIC BLUE DENIM IN A FRESH, MODERN WAY? I’m no authority, but what I’m drawn to in my personal style is matching sets, Canadian tuxedos, dark denim with white stitching, and although the idea of “dressed up denim” is nothing new, I am loving well-worn denim with fancy blouses, statement shoes, and bold accessories. I dislike the concept of “saving things” for good or for special occasions. Let those fancies come out in the sunshine! Pairing with lived-in denim is a great way to make maximal, overstated pieces accessible in the daytime.

Silk Denim jumpsuit (similar here) from Otherwild Los Angeles.

WHAT ARE THE KEY SILHOUETTES TO LOOK FOR? Sailor pants, dorkified fit (flooded, flared, and FUPA), mom jeans, dad jeans, moppa jeans. Let your skinny jeans go, unless you’re one of the few people they flatter.

WE LOVE ALL THE DECONSTRUCTED DENIM WE’RE SEEING. ARE THERE ANY TIMES A FRAYED EDGE ISN’T APPROPRIATE? Other than to a wedding, court, or maybe a country club, a frayed edge can go anywhere.

Objects Without Meaning jacket (similar here) and jeans (similar here); Nancy Stella Soto top (similar here).

HOW SHOULD WE BE INVESTING IN DENIM? If your jeans cost twice your rent or mortgage but you wear them hundreds of times, it’s a good investment. Also, well-curated vintage denim taken to your tailor for fine tuning is a good investment.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR FAVORITE PIECES FROM THE SHOOT. I like to wear things that feel good against my skin and the Creatures of Comfort quilted sailor pants and light jacket are the softest cotton. And the pants have such a flattering fit. And Shaina Mote’s dark denim swing trench coat with white stitching is perfection.

Shaina Mote trench and pants (similar here).