Elisa Kosonen – Page 2 – Garmentory Magazine

’80s Icon We Love: Sigourney Weaver

The 1980s belonged to Sigourney Weaver. The New York native quickly made her mark at the turn of the decade with her first leading role as Ellen Ripley in 1979’s Alien, before going onto star in some of the most defining films of the era like Ghostbusters, Working Girl, Gorillas in the Mist: The Story of Dian Fossey and, of course, Aliens — the sequel to the iconic series.

Alongside Sigourney’s acting chops, one of the things that stood out most about was her style. She championed power dressing like no other, making oversized coats, shoulder padded blazers and pant suit trousers look oh-so good — especially when accompanied with wild curls and an attitude. Of course, she could own it casually, too, with chunky men’s wear-inspired knits that looked way better on her than it ever could on the boys. Bill Murray, eat your heart out.

As well as being popular trends in the ‘80s, this kind of fashion aesthetic also perfectly matched the strong personalities of the characters Sigourney brought to life: Working GIrl’s Katharine Parker, a boss on Wall Street; Dian Fossey, the seminal primatologist and anthropologist; the unshakable extraterrestrial survivor, Ellen Ripley. In this way, fashion’s current love affair with this decade isn’t only about great style — it’s about female empowerment, too.

Photo by Moviestore/REX/Shutterstock

Fieldguided’s Anabela Piersol On Seventies Style

The style, the makeup and all the groovy vibes — Fieldguided‘s Anabela Piersol taps into one of our favorite eras.

“Ahh, the ’70s: the flower children have gone, taking their acoustic guitars with them, and making way for Studio 54, disco, punk rock, and a whole lot of polyester. Can you imagine the way the cigarette smoke and cologne smelled embedded in those fibres? But at least everyone looked far out!”

Chasing The Morning Light With Kaleidos

It is often said that a picture can say a thousand words. And while it’s certainly a cliché, it’s also completely true. Suffice it to say, we felt pretty strongly when we first laid on our eyes on this gorgeous series. Styled by Amanda Vega, the founder of Virginia-based online shop and vintage purveyors Kaleidos, and shot on a special camera by her friend, Sallie Keena, the photographs spark something both familiar and new, highlighted by beautiful streams of daylight.

Shopping vintage is similar — there’s a narrative in each piece of clothing or shoe, discovered by looking a little closer.

Let Amanda take you through these.

“There is something so beautiful about the morning light – the light that comes from a 4.5 billion year old sun.”

“It revisits us every day and when it shines its light on us each morning, it feels anew.”

“Vintage is special for me in a very similar way — it’s revisiting something that is old and finding new life in it.”

’70s Icon We Love: Joan Didion

In 1979, Joan Didion released The White Album — a collection of her essays published in magazines such as Life, Esquire and The New York Times. In it was the prolific writer’s packing list — something that she would keep taped to her closet door for reference when she had to spontaneously leave town for an assignment. It read simply, including things like leotards and skirts (versatile pairings), a pullover and bourbon, which perfectly highlighted the understated elegance reflected in both her prose and her style.

A one-time editor for Vogue, Joan’s eye for fashion was unforced and functional. She never intended to become the style icon she indeed became, but for the way minimal silhouettes like maxi dresses and neck scarves fell on her slight frame, it couldn’t be helped. Plus, this is a woman who used to ride around in a white Stingray — could she be any cooler?

It seems that she can, as last year saw her chosen as the face of French fashion house, Céline. As do her iconic pieces of writing, like Slouching Towards Bethlehem and Play It As It Lays, Joan’s effortless style endures and is always, always relevant.

Pretty in Pink and Yellow

Everything You Need to Know About Shopping for Vintage Denim

There’s nothing like the thrill of the hunt, but when you find exactly what you’ve been looking for? It’s soooo much better. Which is why we went to the experts to get some advice on what to do when shopping for vintage denim. A pair of battered Wranglers or Levi’s 501 jeans have become just as essential to a good wardrobe as any Glove shoe or bucket bag. Our favorite cool girls make it look easy, but the rest of us need a little extra help to bolster the confidence to comb through our local thrift store. The good news? You can also buy these things online, which we really love. Whether you’re a thrifting pro or have yet to pop your vintage denim cherry, the words of wisdom that follow are key to finding that perfect pair of vintage jeans.

START WITH A FITTING ROOM “Our top tip for shopping vintage denim would be to try an assortment of sizes. Fit really varies between style numbers and years produced so you really need to try a range and see what works best with your body type!” say Lauren Clark and Lyndsey Chow, founders of Hey Jude, a purveyor of contemporary vintage based in Vancouver, BC. “It takes a bit more effort but when you find the style that is best for you it’s worth the extra work.” Once you’ve narrowed down your size range, cut and fit preference, you’ll have all the info you need to shop for vintage jeans offline or online.

LOOK FOR EXTRA TREATMENTS “If you can, try to find vintage Levi’s that have been silicone washed,” advises Andi Bakos, who curates a regular rotation of vintage denim for her boutique West End Select Shop in Portland. “We send all our jeans to a wash house and they come back feeling lighter, softer and more supple. It’s like putting them into a time machine that makes them 20 years older and better.” Look for curated vintage stores where this kind of vintage TLC is more likely.

THEY SHOULD BE PERFECTLY IMPERFECT “We love denim for its sustainability and forever getting better with age. Jeans are effortlessly classic, and unexpectedly sentimental,” explain Stacy Daily and Claire Lampert, creators of B Sides. “Vintage jeans fit like no other piece of clothing you’ve ever worn. They are best when they’re broken in, heavy, imperfect, with color variation.” So look for things that make that pair extra special and personal to you. If your perfect fit has too many holes for your liking, there’s nothing a good tailor can’t help with to make them exactly how you want them.

TRADITIONAL SHOPPING RULES DO NOT APPLY

“Look in the men’s and boy’s jean sections too!” enthuses Amanda Vega, owner of KALEIDOS. Wendy and LaRae Kangas, the founders of DUO NYC, are on the same page. “We recommend shopping the men’s section. We’ve found some of our favorite pairs in the men’s rack, aka score a perfect boyfriend jean. Also, don’t get hung up with sizing on the label. Old denim tends to run much smaller than modern sizing. Our rule of thumb is size up two to three sizes.”

Merl Kinzie and Rachael Glasder, founder and online shop manager of The Shudio respectively, completely agree on both counts. “I have lately been going to the boys section of thrift and resale shops as some of the sizes are better for modern women, plus they have that grass-stained and worn-in quality that a lot of women look for,” Rachael says. “Try on everything!” Merl adds. “I tell every person who comes into The Shudio looking for vintage denim that you have to carve out a solid hour when hunting for the perfect pair because depending on the year the jeans were constructed and how the first owner wore them, the sizes can widely fluctuate and a pair you never would’ve picked up could be your denim soul mate. It also doesn’t hurt to do some research prior to hitting the racks so you know what styles and fits best suit you… but again, try on EVERYTHING.”

“If you’re in a shop somewhere, try them on,” continues Katie May, owner of BLACKSHEEP. “Try them all on. The ones you thought wouldn’t fit may be the ones that make your butt look better than it ever has before! It’s so tough to know your size with all the inconsistencies and vanity sizing over the years. If you’re shopping online it’s important to know your measurements. I also tend to be pretty brand loyal so you can have idea of what to expect.”

Remember: you are not a number, you’re a person. Hopefully after this, a person with the perfect pair of vintage jeans.

Meet the Designer: Ty McBride of Intentionally Blank

When it comes to putting together the perfect outfit, a killer pair of shoes is pretty much key. With styles that look good with everything, this emerging Los Angeles-based label totally fits the bill. Equipped with years of experience working with some seriously big players in the footwear industry, like Jeffrey Campbell and Solestruck, designer Ty McBride has gradually been taking over our shoe game since he launched Intentionally Blank is 2014. From the line’s signature mule to their casual-cool slides, we simply can’t get enough. With the belief that designs should have a distinct POV, his collections are created with practicality and function in mind while always hitting all of the right style notes.

And now, keeping that philosophy in mind, Intentionally Blank has finally expanded into apparel with the launch of their amazing capsule collection AND are opening a Los Angeles brick and mortar, to boot. Things just keep on getting better.

Here, we sit down with Ty to chat about design, his undying love for the east coast, and what exactly he likes to do with his time off. Spoiler alert: his answer is the best.

Shop Intentionally Blank >

Vintage Picks For Our Favorite Fall Trends

We’ve already tapped into the key ways to freshen up your Fall wardrobe this season, but since it’s Vintage Month, we thought we would apply some of the seasonal trends to a few of our favorite vintage picks. Because, after all, not only is shopping vintage a great way to shop sustainably and integrate one-of-a-kind character into your closet, it also provides an opportunity to be more fashion forward than ever. Read on and swoon.

METALLICS

Metallics are a super simple way to add a little bit extra oomph to any outfit. These beautiful ivory vintage Stuart Weitzman pumps do just that in the most subtle yet effective way, while checking off all the other details we love in a shoe right now: sleek silhouette, almond toe and blocked heel. It’s ’90s minimalism to a tee.

For those wanting to really dive into this trend, this taupe metallic shirt makes a big splash. No pockets, front button enclosure and insanely easy to style. Plus, the rich color basically makes it a neutral, so it goes with everything. Try it with disco dance moves.

OVERSIZED OUTERWEAR

A large, comfy coat is a win in two ways: it keeps you warm on crisp days and it’s the perfect pulled-together topper. The men’s wear-inspired piece also channels one of our favorite shapes from the ’80s, like this vintage, calf-skimming, oatmeal one by Pepe does. Okay, that’s three ways.

This vintage cotton hooded coat offers a lightweight option in the trend, with its relaxed fit and straight hem.

SOFT TEXTURE

It’s all about texture this season and this vintage tank does it totally right. Super soft and in a classic cut, it is as adorable as it is easy to wear (and easy on the skin… ahhh).

SHEARLING

Okay, so who didn’t want to be Penny in Almost Famous? Well, now you can channel your inner groupie in this perfect Penny Lane Jacket. In a rich burnt orange color and with a shearling collar, everything about it is also right on trend.

PINK

Halston was THE brand of the ’70s and this vintage Halston cashmere knit dress is relieving all of our era envy, while staying totally contemporary. The luxurious dress, which has a buttoned up mandarin collar, comes in a dusty pink — one of this season’s most coveted shades.

For a more structured take on the soft hue, there’s this linen service jacket. Wear it layered or buttoned up all on its own. We’re blushing at all the options.

TURTLENECKS

Turtlenecks really are the best — you can layer them, wear them on their own and they’re multi-seasonal, working for fall all the way through to winter. This vintage ribbed silk mockneck is pure perfection, with its luxurious fabric, short sleeves and hip-hitting hem.

Needed more proof at how amazing turtlenecks are? Here’s this nude cashmere and silk sweater.

WIDE LEG PANTS

These vintage trousers may be straight from the 1970s, but they feel completely current. Tapping into this season’s love affair with the wide leg, the double knit polyester pant is right on the money with its high waist, easy silhouette and bright color.

COLOR BLOCKING

Why have just one color when you could have two? We’re being greedy with our hues this season and this perfectly oversized pocket pullover, which combines cream and brown, is everything we’ve been lusting over. Like something grandpa would wear, only better.

For more amazing vintage, head this way!

Vintage Month: Meet the Curators

We’re already pretty excited about our exclusive vintage pop-up this month, but we wanted to know more. What’s the story behind those expertly edited racks of nostalgia? Those perfectly imperfectly preserved pieces of history? We caught up with a few of our vintage curators to find out why they love vintage, what their most coveted things are and, of course, how to find that perfect piece.

Author: Elisa Kosonen